Wood Family Travels: September 2009

Wood Walkabout - SEPTEMBER - First Half

UK (Guildford) - 1 day

Belgium (Brugge) 1 day
Germany (Nurburg, Heidelberg, Rothenburg) - 10 days

UK (Guildford)

Having successfully found Hadrian's Wall enroute from Edinburgh, we arrived late in the afternoon to Guildford and checked into the Premier Inn. It was very comfortable and close to the Simcock's and had the advantage of not burdening them with 5 extra people on the door step for the night. After catching up with Melanie, and doing a quick bag swap, we met Melanie, Jonny (who had just flown in,) and Ellie for dinner in a local restaurant. It was so nice to see them again after our week together in the Dordogne and catch up on what they'd been doing over the past month. It was also a special treat for the kids who just adored Aunty Melanie, (the craft queen.) Next morning we were off on our second loop of central Europe, first stop. Brugge in Belgium.

Belgium (Brugge)

Temps. 27 deg. C Dusk 8.30pm

Belgian Chocolate, Cakes, Lace, River Boats & Horse drawn Carriages

Cakes from "Prestige Tea House"

Belgian chocolate window displays

We arrived at the Channel Tunnel without incident for our third crossing over to Calais. As we passed through France and over the Belgium border we noted the flatness of the countryside and the prevalence of bikes as a consequence. Hotel Jacobs was a real find. We took up the family suite, the two interconnecting rooms in the front and highest part of the stepped roofline. It was basic, but ideally located being just a 10 minute walk to the city centre. With only one night ahead to explore, we set off in search of the highlights. We meandered along the waterways, stopping every few steps for photos, it was so picturesque. At one point, we had all five of us snapping away at once, must have been quite a sight - the Wood family Paparazzi! At least the kids were getting good use from their cameras that Santa had brought them for Christmas in Salzburg and I was definitely having a ball with the new toy from my birthday.

Brugge's amazing waterways and neo-gothic architecture

The central square known as the Grote Markt or Grand Market covered almost a hectare and was a pedestrian-only presinct, with the exception of bikes and horse drawn carriage rides - real a tourist mecca, alive with activity. One side was flanked by brightly coloured homes with restaurants and cafes underneath. These typically featured the stepped roof lines so prevalent in Belgian neo-gothic architecture. The other end of the square featured the Belfrey Tower (Belfort) which used to house Belgium's former treasury. Not wanting a tower to go unclimbed by the Wood family, we quickly took up the challenge offered by the 366 steps, and discovered the inner clock workings and 47 bell carillon at the top. The other building worthy of note around the square was the Provincial Courts which had undergone many controversial renovations over the years.

View of central square from the top of the Belfry Tower

One of the many bikes in the square

Horse Drawn Carriage infront of the Provincial Courts bathed in the afternoon sun

One of the many wooden river boat cruises

We enjoyed a river cruise like so many other tourists and also a carriage ride at the girl's insistence, each time learning more about the history behind this amazing place. On a tip from one of the guides, we paid a visit to Our Lady's Church to discover an early work by Michelangelo. Although not as famous as his statue of David, the accessibility of this beautiful pieta had surprised us given how difficult it was to see one of his works back in Italy. This was the only one of the artist's work to ever leave Italy during his lifetime.

The not so famous, Michelangelo Pieta of Mother and Child

A sister on her way to church

We marvelled at the beautiful shopfronts, druelled over the Belgian chocolate displays, being sure to sample where ever possible, and noted the cities obvious focus on lace. The origins of lace in Belgium apparently date back to the 15th century where it was a mandatory teaching in schools and convents. It was meant to replace embroidery in the fashion world allowing dresses to follow alternative styling.

Chocolates are not the only delicacy of Brugge. Cakes too were amongst the finest in Europe, and believe me, having conducted my very own cake sampling tour of Europe, I should know. Not wanting to let this opportunity pass us, and as if by fate, we stumbled upon a gorgeous tea room on one Vlamingstraat, one of the central approaches to the square on our first afternoon in town. "Prestige" was a beautifully decorated tea room, elegantly decorated, boasting all kinds of wonderful sweet delicacies, including cakes, pastries, sweets and chocolates and home made conserves, (see above pics.) Our wonderful hosts, Frederik and Pascale were great conversationalists and treated us to the freshest raspberry tarts and the most wonderful banana tarts during the two visits of our short time in Brugge. "Prestige" is a definite must for those with a sweet tooth, planning a trip to Brugge.

Some happy customers with Prestige hosts, Frederik and his wife Pascale
Those Raspberry Tarts, hmm, yum

Acknowledging the overriding Flemish dominance, Brugge was a real mixing pot of European culture and languages so much so that it was often difficult to know what language to speak in. Whilst not part of our initial itinerary, Brugge had been a treat for us, a pleasure I'd recommend!

Germany (Nurburg)

Temps. 5 -17 Deg. C Dusk 8pm

CARS, Castles, Medieval Markets,

CARS, Rhine Cruises, Horses,

CARS, Wildlife and more CARS....

Nurburg sign depicting track circuit

Spectators braving the track to take advantage of on of the few viewing vantage points

Leaving Brugge, early afternoon, having tried to squeeze as much as possible into our visit, we arrived into Nurburg set in the heart of the Eifel Mountains just 90km south west of Cologne. We had come to Nurburg for no other reason than to attend the Nurburg Ring. If you're like me, you have no idea what that is. I'm told by a reliable source that it is a famous, old, German racetrack, built in the 1920s which is 20km long, featuring 165 corners. It was also the place of Nicky Lauder's formula one crash. Since this event, (although of little comfort to me,) Formula One's are no longer allowed to race here. Instead, everyday punters like Steve, can now time themselves going around the circuit. Wanting to make full use of our overseas experience, he enrolled in a course run by Scuderia Hanseat, where he would receive driving tuition over a period of four days. This was the thing he had waited for all year, so understandably he took to it like a duck to water. Heading out early each morning from the Bergstube (where we were staying), in his little rented Renault Megan he'd join his fellow car fanatics down on the graffiti ridden track, then return late in the day for an hour or two only to leave again for a theory session over dinner. So much fun all disguised in a course!

Cassidy Schumacher at the wheel

Steve's class alongside the graffiti ridden track (this, apparently is allowed and what makes it special by the way)

As a special thrill on his last day, Steve booked in to have a lap around the circuit with a BMW ring taxi. This is where you are driven in a "hot lap" by qualified instructors so as to realise the full extent of the track. Steve couldn't believe his luck, when he landed a seat next to Sabine Schmitz who was apparently, (like I would know - not) a well known female German driver who was featured on Top Gear driving a lap with a van. Having later watched her do a couple of burnouts around corners at high speed, I thought what an amazing job she has, showing men what women can do behind the wheel. This was one gutsy lady!

Steve in his Renault Megan

BMW Ring Taxi

Steve, Chris, and Matt with Sabine Shmitz

Steve having his celebrity moment with Top Gear guest, Sabine Schmitz

Nurburg itself was an interesting place. Consisting of a plethora of guest houses, hotels, apartments, and restaurants. It was as if it only existed to accommodate the sleeping and eating needs of the car or biking enthusiast. In fact, after a couple of days observation around town and the Bergstube, (run by Martin, a biking enthusiast from the UK,) I quickly realised that it was pretty close to HEAVEN for boys who liked their two or four wheeled toys!

For the rest of us though, it was a bit limited, especially being a drive from anything, when you hadn't driven a large, left hand drive car on the wrong side of the road all year. As a wise friend of mine once said, "Maybe good luck, May be bad luck." As it turned out, the isolation and three kids who were bored silly and could'nt take any more schoolwork, it was just the thing I needed to get going. So as nervous as one thing, I took my relationship with our dear Madge, (our car for those who don't know,) one step further. I too, took to it like a duck to water, finding the whole experience extremely liberating after 8 months in the passenger seat. Besides, it was the countryside in Germany not Italy! How hard could it be ? What I hadn't counted on was the fact that most of the people sharing the tarmac were only there for one reason, to race cars or bikes, so despite their eagerness to pass on what was a curly piece of road to say the least, I stuck to by guns and gently navigated Madge at a comfortable speed. We got there eventually...

The kids and I with our new found freedom, scooped out all the local amenities in the nearby town of Adenau, like the tourist and post offices and the supermarket with the racing car trolley, (a favourite of Mitch and Cassi's.) We drove around in search of riding school's for the girls who were desperate to get out on the back of a horse again, but turned up nothing for nearly two days when our luck changed. We had another one of those moments driven by a higher being, when having nearly exhausted our search for one particular school, I stopped randomly to ask for directions. Ezio at Ill Cavallino Restaurant on the road to Mullenbach, was very obliging. Not only did he call them for me, speaking in German to discover it was no longer open after the summer, but he then rang one he knew at Kelberg and booked us in. I could have kissed him, having had the persistent "Mum, when can we go horseriding?" ringing in my ears for the previous week.

Girls in the saddle in the beautiful German countryside

So the girls got their ride, (which wasn't exactly what they were expecting, but a great experience all the same,) and Mitch and I got out with them amongst the beautiful German countryside. In doing so, we met a little girl called Katerina who despite not speaking a word of English (besides the "Happy Birthday" Song, which she proudly dazzled us with a few times,) still had a lovely time with Cassidy feeding the horses. We also visited the Deer Park (or Wild & Erlebnispark) at Daun which was about a 20km drive away (getting to see all kinds of wildlife,) had a go on a mountain luge, and visited the medievil Nurburg Castle (which boasted a 360 degree panaramic view and a set of roman ruins.) The latter was a real find being quite literally, on our back door.

Ezio who helped us out with the horseriding

Nurburg Castle, just 100m from our back door

Deer Park:

Deer and the pesty Warthog we nearly ran ove on more than one occassion

Making friends with the donkey's. Amazing what a carton of food can do...

Our investigations at the tourist office uncovered the Sinzig Medievil market which thankfully coincided with the end of Steve's course. We made a real family day out of it arriving late morning. Whilst we were expecting maybe a few stalls here and there, we weren't expecting anything like we saw. Being among the few people not dressed accordingly, it was as if we had stepped back in time and visited another time and place. I liken it to being caught in Doctor Who's time machine, only to step out amongst a village of locals from the 13th century all mixing it up at traditional stalls, rides, games, food and entertainment. There wasn't one bit of plastic anywhere banned - it all had to be wood, paper or metal. Words can not describe it, so I'll let the photos speak for themselves...

Medieval Market Day in Sinzig:

Musicians and central performance area

Juggling Jester

The Mouse In Your House game (note mouse in centre of table) The kids loved this one!

Kids with dressed up locals

Medievil warriors at play

Rhine Cruise:

After a wonderful few hours back in time at Sinzig, we departed for an afternoon river cruise on the Rhine River. The weather wasn't crash hot, being overcast with intermittent rain, but we didn't mind all snug aboard the Moby Dick cruise boat. It was great to just take in the sights from the water: the castles high up on hilltops, the vineyards, the architecture of the housing, and the many barges carrying freight up and down. Our cruise went between Konigswinter and Linz. It was relatively under patrionised as the tourist season was all but over...

Moby Dick cruise boat

View of Vineyards up the hill from the boat
Germanic buildings along the Rhine

Germany (Heidelberg):

After 6 nights in Nurburg, we departed, (tacky souvenirs in hand,) and headed for Rothenburg where we were to stay three nights. On the way we stopped in at Heidelberg. I had wanted to go there ever since my Nan and Pa had returned with tales from their round the world trip 37 years ago. Sadly for me, it was a case of having too high an expectation. Whilst the town was nice, with it's pedestrian walkway amongst the usual fashion shops, it didn't hold the charm that I was hoping for. The castle up on the hill failed to capture our interest, (maybe we were just castled-out, but we chose not to make the trip up the hill as a result. We did walk around the main square about the church and followed a cute street down to the river, choosing to take in the old town from the bridge. After an non-memorable lunch we continued on to Rotthenberg arriving just before dinner in the dark.

Terraces up street leading to the Rhine River

Steve and kids on the Bridge opposite Heidelberg

Rothenburg or (Rothenburg Ob der Tauber):

Temps. 8 - 16 Deg. C Dusk 7.30pm

Christmas Shops, Chess Sets, Beer Steins, Dolls,

Streesenballs, and all things Medieval

The Town Plaque, Famous Night Watchman, Rothenburg Architecture

The Romantic Road (Romantiche Strabe) had long been an area we had wanted to visit.
We arrived into Rothenburg in the early evening from Heidelberg, which had been somewhat of a disapointment. Straight away we could see that Rothenburg, on the otherhand, was a city not to miss, should you ever come to Germany. Located in the Franconian region of Bavaria, Rothenburg Ob der Tauber is a walled city dating back to the middle ages, famous for its well preserved medieval buildings and the wall that flanks its border. It is perched on a plateau up above the river Tauber as the name suggests. It is an amazingly picturesque city steeped in history, visibile in both its architecture and the tales brought to life during the famous Night Watchman's Tour. This operates each evening from the town square and is a must. The kids in particular, loved the theatrical side of it and although a little spooky at times, enjoyed walking through the town late at night and learning about life in the middle ages. Stories of executions, seige, famine, plagues, battles and the security and curfews imposed by the walls, had us all hanging onto every word of this charasmatic guide.

Walls surrounding the city connected by towers
View of the red roof tops of Rothenburg

Night Watchman - a real character!

Despite the limited damage that was done to part of the wall during the Second World War, we learned that the city itself was only saved due to quick actions of the Deputy Secretary of State in the US Army, because of his love of the city, due to the picture that adorned the roof of his family home whilst he was growing up. Visitors to this beautiful town, have a lot to thank this man for! We chose to walk the wall early in our visit despite the fog, so we could appreciate the triangular, red roof tops and church spires from up above. This covered walkway, approx. 5 meters off the ground, was built in the 1300's and featured the many names & countries of donors who had contributed to its rebuilding. Apparently the city advertised world wide for assistance, and lovers of Rothenburg from all over the world came to it's rescue. A worthwhile cause, that's for sure!

Julie and the kids on the steps of the wall

Steve and Mitch examining the donor plaques

During our three night stay at the Altes Brauhaus (which was fabulous by the way,) we had some good hearty fodda, incuding Steve's favourite - the Schvinehaxer (pork leg,) and sampled some of the local beer. The germanic food, whilst comforting in the cooler months, certainly wasn't good for the waistline. Either were the Streesenballs, (deepfried balls dipped in chocolate.) I mean that's just pure fat, but the kids liked the local delicacies all the same. They also loved the Christmas shops, which were just amazing. The Kathe Wolfart stores that seemed to have the market pretty well sewn up boasted a myriad of decorations. Having spent hours working our way through these festive treasure troves of Germanic decoration, we finally succumbed to the temptation. Needless to say the Wood Family household will be featuring a few of these authentic bits and pieces the Christmas after we're home.

Sneeballen, Nutcracker, Christmas windows and displays so prevalent in the town

The kids all enjoyed seeking out their various collections of the trip, Mitch with his flags, Cassidy with her dolls and Sheri with her charms. Rothenburg was unashamedly geared towards tourism, ready to receive the tourist dollar in an abundance of gorgeous, little shops lining the pedestrianised town. Beer steins, chess sets, suits of armour and swords seemed to be dominant amongst them. Steve thankfully managed to procure the chess pieces that had evaded him back in the Grand Bazaar back in Turkey, so he was a happy man. Other things we did whilst we were there included, the boys climbing the highest tower on the wall, a visit to the Toy Museum, (which featured a Barbie exhibition, much to Cassidy's delight, and a family photo shoot in middle age costume.