WoodWalkAbout

Wood Walkabout - October - Second Half

Austria (Vienna) - 1 week
Austria ( Innsbrook) -1 night
Italy (Lake Como) - 1 and a half weeks.

Austria (Vienna):

Temps. 1 - 6 deg. C - Dusk 5.30pm

Composers & Choirs, Stallions & Puppets, Carriages, Trams & Terrific Torte tasting.........

We landed at Vienna airport and immediately felt the dramatic change in temperature. We'd left behind a warm 25 degree's celcius back in Athens and had flown into a chilly 1 degree C, complete with rain. We crossed the road and collected our bags from the hotel where they'd been stored for the past three weeks (free of charge,) retrieved the car from the long term car park nearby, packed it all in, and headed into the centre of Vienna where we'd rented an apartment for 6 nights.

We found it within half an hour, having only made one wrong turn on the way, and met our host, who showed us through the apartment. It was a very comfortable two bedroom flat on the top floor of a four storey building, only 2km out of the city centre. Luckilly for us it had a lift and great access to the tram station which was on a direct line to the city taking only 5 mins. each . Having stored the car in a nearby carpark, we used the tram repeatedly over the next five days as we popped in and out of this amazing city so famous for its opera, its music and its composers to see all the sights.

A few months before we had booked tickets to see the two better known attractions of Vienna: the Vienna Boys Choir and the Spanish Riding School. The Vienna boys Choir was held at the Musikverein Wien right in the centre of the city, just a stroll from the Vienna Opera House it self. Somehow we ended up in the front row of this auditorium which would have held around 1000 people, so we got an excellent view of the concert, (including all the facial banter between the boys and their conductor, which added to the show.) We were all very impressed with their voices (especially, Cassidy, the singer amongst us,) and enjoyed the intimacy & quaintness of the performance.

Vienna Boys Choir

An Intermission sneak peak at the orchestral concert playing in the larger auditorium next doo

The Vienna Boys Choir at the Musikverein Wien in full swing

Tributes on the pavement across from the Vienna Opera House - the equivalent to the Hollywood Walk of Fame

-Johann Sebastian Bach
-Johann Strauss

Mitchell with Mozart look alike outside the Hofburg Imperial Palace

The Vienna Opera House

The Spanish Riding School:

This reknown riding school is the oldest, classical dressage riding school in the world. It has a 430 year old breeding history practicing classical equestrian training, from the Renaissance era. The stunning white horses are black initially before they mature, and are fastidiously looked after in stables fit for a king. They are bred in Piber in the south of Austria, and move between their stables, both the Summer and Winter Riding Schools and their training yard (which has to be seen to be believed,) right in the middle of the city at the Hofburg Imperial Palace year round. The girls in particular were jumping out of their skins to see them, having spent a good portion of the year on horseback.




The Stables:



The Stables - luxurious in their finish. The saddle room which you weren't allowed

to photograph was the most impressive lined with the white show saddles and black training saddles.
One of the Lipizzaner Stallions before the show - note the braiding.

The Show:



Kids eagerly awaiting the performance inside the grand & beautifully decorated,
Winter Riding School. The only arena we've ever seen with a chandelier.
The finale to an amazing show, a must see in Vienna!

The Horses of Vienna:


As in many European cities, horse drawn carriage rides for the tourists featured strongly.

Carriages and more carriages,

Cassidy outside the Hofburg Imperial Palace in Vienna's old town quarter

Vienna Central:

View up the central pedestrianized mall from the Vienna Opera House
Our No. 62 tram at Kiebergasse heading to O'pra station in the city

Steve leading the way...

No visit to any European city would be complete without seeking out the "sweet treat's" on offer, so a short visit to the Hotel Sacher (home of the original Sacher Torte,) which was right in the middle of town was a must! We enjoyed the fine service, and a spot of spoiling...

Cassi with one of the lovely waitresses (in French Maid's outfit) at Hotel Sacher

after some Sacher Torte and Strudel with Apple Sauce

A Puppet Show & Carriage Ride at Schonbrunn Palace:

The girls and I had really enjoyed the marionette puppets in Augsburg

so were keen for Mitchell to experience their magic. We discovered
there was a show of Mozart's Magic Flute at the Schonbrunn Palace.

Despite being a two hour show in German the kids loved it, (thank goodness

for the intermission and the front row seats, which meant we were up close to

the action.) Once again the quality of the puppets was amazing! Prior to the

show we enjoyed a wonderful carriage ride around the gardens of the palace,
taking note of the grand Viennese gardens and the many sculptures of a bygone era.

Mitch at the Schonnbrunn Palace

The palace at dusk as we left the Marionnette Puppet Show

Wood's On Wheels - a carriage ride around The Schonnbrunn Palace

"Puppaginno" from Mozart's Magic Flute Puppet Show

Entrance to the Marionette Puppet Theatre at the Schonbrunn Palace

Enroute to Innsbruck:

We left Vienna and headed towards our next stop - Lake Como. The trip was to be too long to do in one day so we'd decided to stop over in Innsbruck overnight along the way. The scenery from the car window was impressive....

A sample of the first snow covered mountain ranges, and castles along the way..

Mountains on the way from Vienna to Innsbruck
Hotel Dollinger at Innsbruck with the snow covered mountain behind

Autumn In Innsbrook - Cassi in the park & view across the river

We made the most of our short stay at Innsbruck by taking a long 2km walk along the river, into the city's old town square. The exercise and fresh air was welcomed after so much time hunched up in the car. What awaited us was well worth the effort. An old town square with quaint shops and restaurants. We chose one of the restaurants before dusk, and had a quick meander, noting the clock tower from the 14th century and the gothic Golden Roof feature at one end of the semi circular old town square. Apart from losing Sheri's hat, the night was a success, as the kids enjoyed Wiener Schnitzels the size of their plates, and loads of complimentary colouring in. In the absence of a taxi we headed back to Hotel Dollinger on foot retracing our steps in search of the hat to no avail... We were up bright and early in the morning to see the wonderful sunset, and enjoy a nice breakfast, before jumping in the car again and heading towards Lake Como for our second visit of the trip.

Colourful houses across the river at Innsbrook
Mitch and Cassi in old town square

Clocktower and colurful Austrian architecture of the old town
View of the sunrise over Innsbruck out our hotel window

Enroute to Italy:

We passed lakes and snow covered mountain peaks, until we came to the mountain pass of all passes.....

The Stelvio Pass:

The Stelvio pass seperated Austria and Italy. It is 2757m high at it's highest point, and we (Madge) felt every foot of it. It was trecherous in places, with it's unrelenting zigzag bends (48 of which were just on the way down,) with the small guard railing being the only thing between us and a costly fall down to the valley below. Despite the snow on the surrounding hills, we didn't need chains for the road itself. To our astonishment, we came across a cyclist (not a spring chicken either,) who had made his way up three quarters of the pass by the time we'd spotted him. We were tempted to ask him if he wanted a lift, but surprisingly, he seemed to be managing quite well on his own. Besides one could never tell if given half a chance of stopping, whether Madge would be able to start from a standing start. At the top, we came across a frozen desert waist land.

UP we went zigzaging this way and that!
The frozen waist land at the top. We felt like we'd come to the end of the world....

and DOWN the other side!

View down to the Italian side of the pass

The decent seemed much tamer than the trip up despite its 48 hairpin bends.

No wonder Top Gear had voted it "the greatest driving road in the world."


Picturesque village on the way

Bon Riccordo Plate at Jim's Restaurant at the bottom of The Stelvio Pass

Once down the other side we stopped in to Jim's Restaurant (another Bon Ricordo Restaurant that Steve had booked the day before, for a well positioned culinary reward for making it over the pass. This was the ninth Bon Ricordo (Happy Memory) restaurant of the trip, so we enjoyed yet another fabulous feast from the local region, adding another plate to our collection of eight. The countryside had become barren, the architecture more rustic and the driving much quicker and more erratic - we were definitely back in Italy...

Farm house and the many apple (mele) up the hillside orchards.

Lake Como

Temps. 15 - 21 deg. C Dusk 5.45pm

Spending time with family, old friends and new friends in amongst spectacular scenery, Italian charm and amazingly good weather!

Picturesque scenes around the lake

Ferries leaving Bellagio

San Giacomo Church in Ossucio

Autumn time on the lake

Coming back to Como was something we were all very much looking forward to. Having stayed there for a fortnight back in April, it was one of the few places during our ten months away where we new exactly what to expect, and where we knew we would have friendly, familiar faces there waiting for us. What we didn't expect, was the wonderful welcome dinner upon our arrival with Danilo, Nonna Angelina, and Sebastian. It was wonderful to see them all again, it was almost like returning home.

Our New Italian Friends:
Over the next few days we caught up on all the news since our last visit. This meant Nonna Angelina, waisted no time in proudly introducing us to Frederika's new brother, Marco, who was now five months old. His mum, Mirium was expecting him not long after our our departure back in April. What a gorgeous little man he was too! The autumn weather was mild, similiar to what it was back in the spring, which meant the kids played outside like before, only this time Sebastian wasn't on holidays and now even Frederika had started school. They all made the most of the weekends to compensate.

Sebastian, Mitchell, Sheridan, Frederika and Cassi
Marco, Mirium & Frederika, with the some of us

The kids really enjoyed being amongst friends again. Cassi and Mitch spent lots of time with Danilo in the garden, and with Nonna Angelina, watering plants, and helping with some odd jobs. They even picked up a bit of Italian in the process.

Danilo took us out on the lake in his boat
"The way you should see the lake" he told us.
Nonna Angelina with Cassi (affectionately known as "Carti")

Nonna Angelina with Mitch (Michaelo)
Frederika and Cassi

Mitch and Frederika doing some Halloween Craft

Out And About On The Lake:

The Greenway Walk around the lake

Lenno - our local town where we had enjoyed the regular Tuesday market by the lake

Towns along the lake

Villa Carlotta - one of the many beautiful Villas of Lake Como.
(When we visited in April its gardens were alive with the colour of the azaleas.)
One of the ferries on the lake which make it such a pleasure to get from A to B.

Lakeside town of Varenna

Mitch on the back of Danilo's boat

One of the traditional rowing boats from the lake

Aregno
Boating to Sala Comacina

Isola Comacina:

One of the beautiful features of where Danilo's house was its promimity to the only island on the lake, Isola Comacina. Apparently, given to Belgium after the war, it is largely undeveloped, with the exception of an old church (and associated ruins,) at one end, and a restaurant and open air cafe at the other. It is accessible by either ferry, private or hired boat,) and is a wonderful place for a walk and to enjoy the lake from a different perspective. We rediscovered this wonderful spot with our dear friends, The Brennans late one afternoon.

Seagull at dusk on the ferry wharf
The regular boat to and from the island.
(This man had a great job, in between customers he'd fish from the wharf.)

Ossuccio and Sala Comacino

The Brennan's:

We discovered quite coincidentally that the Brennan's, our good friends from Northbridge, were heading to Como to stay in Menaggio just 10mins up the road from us. Having seen them in Dublin in July this year it was a real treat for us, especially Mitch who got to catch up with one of his best mates. They stayed in a great apartment in Mennagio close to shops, cafes and restaurants and had a fabulous view of the lake. There proximity made a couple of reandeavous easy which included a boat trip over to Isola Comacina, an alfresco lunch and dinner at Restaurant San Giacomo all on one day and mini golf, coffee and a spot of shopping at Menaggio another.

John & Sheelagh, Zac and the Woods in the central piazza of Menaggio
Sheelagh and Julie enjoying the view after a stroll around the shops

The grownups on Isola Comacina
The kids and the kids at heart at mini golf

Sheri, Cassi, Zac and Mitch heading over to Isola Comacina
Chocolate mousse eating pirates, Zac and Mitch

An alfresco lunch at our place in the mild autumn weather

Kids on the jetty waiting to go back to Sala Comacina

Family: - Nick and Kirsten Come to Como in search of some sun....

One of the nice things about our time overseas is the way we've been able to catch up with Nick & Kirsten, ) my brother and sister-in-law, a few times throughout the year. The kids have been so excited to see them each time, eager to have time with other grown ups besides their parents.

They had booked to stay right in the heart of Como opposite the lake, so as to be handy to cafes, restaurants and shops, and the ferry for day trips to some of the beautiful lakeside towns. During our time with them we enjoyed a dinner in Como, a day trip to Bellagio, a dinner at our place (where we all had a hoot making a 70th Birthday video for Steve's dad,) and a day trip to Milan.

Bellagio:

We met Nick and Kirsten in Bellagio after taking a scenic ferry ride over from Cadenabbia. The spectacular scenery made this the nearest thing to a Sydney Harbour ferry experience that we'd seen so far. After an obligatory meander around the shops lining the streets and laneways, we all enjoyed a long, lazy, Sunday afternoon lunch in a restaurant towards the top of the hill. Italians were extremely accommodating when it came to kids in restaurants and this place was no exception. Our guys must have been tame in comparison to the children at some of the other neighbouring tables, because they were complimented by other patrons on their behaviour - a rare treat to be savoured by their parents!

A further meander around the shops for the girls over a gelato, and a coffee by the lake for the boys, was a great way to spend a Sunday. Catching the last of the day's sunshine, (which Bellagio was famous for,) while watching the ferries come and go and the kids feeding the ducks on the jetty, made for a perfect afternoon.

Steve and Nick taking a break with a coffee whilst watching

the sun set and the ferries come and go from the Bellagio

A long, Sunday lunch at the top of the central laneway in Bellagio

Milan:

Before Nick and Kirsten headed back to Scotland, a trip to Milan (just over an hour away) was in order. Well at least that's what Sheri thought. Having her shopping savvy aunty with her in the worlds fashion capital was too big an opportunity to pass up. Her mum just went along for the ride of course...

Having finally arrived in from Como we met up with N & K at the cathedral and headed off in search of lunch. We walked down the central pedestrianised precinct noting the outdoor art exhibition from Spain, and the multicultural melting pot of passers by. Kirsten and Sheri came up with a winner - an outdoor cafe styled restaurant with good food, great people watching vantage points and a funny waitress. She even fed Unlce Nick his meal at one point, getting him to finish what was on his plate. The kids thought this was hilarious and we wished Bernard and Trisha were there to see it!

After lunch, we were ready to have a sticky beak in the shops, with the girls going one way and the boys the other. They found the Ferrarri shop - what a surprise, and we found Zara, H & M and Benetton. The girls had taken a liking to Zara during the year and rated it up there with their favourites, Monsoon and Accessorise. Chatswood Chase at home had a lot to live up to.....

After a hurried good bye to N &K, which had come around all too soon, we headed for the metro for our return trip to Como. It had been wonderful seeing them in Como, and sadly, this was to be the last time we were to see them during this trip. Being the jetsetters that they are, another reandeavous, was not far away, with them coming to Australia in March.

Kirsten and the girls in the Gallery Vittoria Emanuel

Sheri, Uncle Nick, Steve and Mitch in Piazza Duomo

The Wood Clan outside the Duomo looking suitably impressed with their pesty photographer - not!

Outdoor art exhibition down the central pedestrianised walkway

Bergamo:

On one of our last days in Como we took a day trip to Bergamo (just over an hour away,) at the suggestion of Sheelagh and John who had flown in there from the UK. Bergamo, was not on the traditional tourist trail for many non-european visitors. It had been shaped by many changes in leadership over the years, having been taken over by both the Venetians and the Austrians. Bergamo consisted of two towns - the old town (Bergamo Alta) and the new town, (Bergamo Base.) We spent our time within the medievil walls of the old town, discovering the charm and beauty of some of the steep, cobble stoned streets lined with beautifully quaint and colourful shops and bakeries and the 12th -15th century architecture of its central piazzas.

We had lunch in another Bon Ricordo Restaurant, (Taverna Colleoni dell'Angelo) on the central Piazza, Piazza Vecchio. After enjoying the specialties of the region and collecting our ninth plate of the trip, we ventured into Piazza Duomo. Here we noted the 15th century portico, the Duomo, the Capella Colleoni and the 12th century Santa Maria church. It was quite amazing, walking around the square and soaking up all the history of this hidden gem of a city. We noted the importance of Polenta which seemed to be on display in most bakery windows and later learned from Danilo that it had originated there, along with the masks similar to those we'd seen in Venice during carnivale. We would definitely recommend Bergamo (Alta) to anyone coming this way, because of its charm and character - a real find, (thanks Sheelagh and John.)

Shopfront in Bergamo boasting pizza's, foccaccias and more...

Kids around from Piazza Duomo

View from under the 15th century portico revealing the Capella Colleoni and 12th century Santa Maria church

Madges Misfortune:

Despite my women's intuition, we parked next door to an elevated building site where a house was being heavilly renovated. On our return, we discovered that Madge had a smashed back windscreen. It appeared the overhead bucket had dropped something, probably as small as a pebble, but because of the height, the glass had shattered. A pantomine followed, we saw no less than 9 seperate people come to our aid including, the Carabinieri (the Italian police,) two local policemen, two car park directors, one of their wives, the car park attendant and two builders. All was resolved in the end, after some quick interpreting from Danilo on the other end of Steve's mobile, and we finally set off back home nearly two hours after our scheduled departure.

Overhead bucket of the building site next door

Madges back windscreen - oooouch!

Italian Police (The Carabinieri) inspecting the damage, now the fun really began...

Sadly, this wasn't the end of the bad luck. We then got caught up in a MAJOR traffic jam passing Milan, witnessing no less than 7 ambulances during our THREE HOUR stand still on the motorway. Ordinarily, this would be inconvenience, but this particular night it was agonising as we were due at Danilo's for a wonderful traditionally cooked meal. This was to be our last big family get together before our departure so it was really frustrating for us all, especially the kids who were looking forward to playing with their friends. When we finally arrived at 9pm only to see Sebastian and Frederika up waiting for us, we also learnt that Nonna Angelina had been cooking the polenta on the fireplace for over an hour. The meal was wonderful, (lentils, polenta and a regional specialty sausage,) although you could tell dear Angelina was disappointed to serve it reheated a couple of hours later. The night was late, the kids were exhausted and everyone was a little deflated about what could have been. This was to be one of the biggest disappointments of the trip - spending real time with our new friends who had looked after us like family.

Two days later we bid a very sad farewell to Danilo, Nonna Angelina, Mirium, Franca and both Sebastian and Frederika. We'd had some magical memories with them all, which had been a special gift. They'd given us a localised view of Italy's beauty and charm for which we'd be forever greatful. The world afterall is a small place - one never knows what the future holds, we only hoped it included return trips to Lake Como, for we'd been blessed here in this piece of paradise with the company of both family and friends...

Next month's blog (November) we head to Switzerland, Paris and back to the UK...